XX-Collection

Kultaseppä Kulmala’s XX-Collection was launched in 2025, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Kultaseppä Kulmala boutique in Helsinki.

Insects have always fascinated jewellery designers. Their delicate forms, iridescent surfaces, and vivid colours invite goldsmiths to showcase their craftsmanship through refined structures and intricate detailing. Throughout history, the insect motif has reappeared in the collections of traditional jewellery houses—and now finds new expression in Kultaseppä Kulmala’s XX-Collection.

Luminous surfaces and light-filtering details

Gemstones are ideal for capturing the tones of the insect world. Their brilliance and precise cuts reflect the distinctive textures and colours found in nature. Gold and platinum frame these elements with elegant restraint, highlighting the graceful and fragile forms that insects offer in endless variety.

For the goldsmith, inspiration lies in the smallest details: microscopic joints, antennae, honeycomb patterns, and the fine veining of wings.

Death’s-head hawkmoth, shield bugs, and flies

The XX-Collection presents a captivating range of insects, from the mysterious death’s-head hawkmoth to forest shield bugs and nocturnal flies.

Death’s-head Hawkmoth – Nocturnal Acherontia
Designed by Pekka Kulmala, this piece carries a medieval prayer against the Black Death across its wings. On its back, a lava-stone cameo from Mount Vesuvius is framed by a halo of diamonds surrounding a woman’s face.

Knight Shield Bug – Nox Eques
The Shield Bug earrings evoke a chivalric character. A grey diamond forms the shield, while warm rose gold and delicate, lace-like diamond details soften the strong, angular lines of the stone.

Moon Flies – Luna Musca
In the Fly Ring, cabochon-cut tourmalines form the bodies of intertwined carrion flies, catching an imagined glow of moonlight.

Craftsmanship and collaboration

The exhibition consists of six unique pieces, each designed and crafted by Kultaseppä Kulmala’s designers and goldsmiths. Beyond the enchanting theme, the XX-Collection is guided by the spirit of collaboration, the creative possibilities of 3D modelling, and the uncompromising craftsmanship that defines Kultaseppä Kulmala.

Jewellery and materials:

Death’s-head Hawkmoth | Nocturnal Acherontia
18K white gold, pink tourmaline, lava stone, diamonds and sapphires

Knight Shield Bug | Nox Eques
18K rose and white gold, diamonds

Moon Flies | Luna Musca
18K white and yellow gold, cabochon-cut tourmalines, sapphires, diamonds

Ghost Weaver | Aranea
18K white gold, diamonds

Noble Flea | Pulex Nobilis
Platinum, sapphire

Honey Bees | Apis Ambrosia
18K gold, morganite